Day 100: Cruising

7/28: Inn at the Long Trail - before Totman Hill Rd
Mile: 1700.8 - 1727.1

I'm almost packed before I realize I didn't actually manage to sleep in, it's barely 6 am. Oops, guess it's not a lazy start. But between breakfast and waiting for the inn to open its doors so I can get water I still don't end up leaving until almost 8.

Then it's back to trail. The view point I pass is pretty overgrown but Gifford State Park has spotless campsites and very nice restrooms. A good morning surprise.
























The trail all day seemed pretty nice and filled with water. There were even sections of dirt road and soft pine not just 100% roots. I felt like I was being spoiled.











Don't worry there was still plenty of nonsense.























It started raining in the early afternoon but never got particularly heavy. I headed a little off trail to check out a private cabin that lets hikers stay. It was pretty nice, complete with ladder and viewing platform on the roof. There were some other hikers there but no water. The water has been more prevalent and I got complacent and didn't check so I'm almost empty which means no staying and enjoying the views. But the canopy keeps me mostly dry and it feels good to be hiking.












A few miles later is a shelter off trail and the water is literally a slow drip. It's takes over 10 minutes to get a liter but it's cold and delicious. I guess it really is a dry year out here, even in Vermont.





Getting towards the end of the day I find trail magic at a road crossing. It's actually a hikers mom who is visiting but it means fresh watermelon, a soda and even new toothpaste. Apparently their dentist is very excited about their hike. It's two girls who have been friends since they were 5 and are still happily hiking together. It's a great end to the day.

I have to go a little farther because I still need water to camp and finally collapse into a flat spot in the woods. It was muggier today than it has been in awhile and I'm beat.


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Day 99: Unexpected Visitor

7/27
Miles: 0

I've been playing phone tag with a friend from the CDT and it turns out she's nearby so I'm swooped up after breakfast and spend the day doing errands by car and seeing a little of Vermont. Woohoo!


There's a historic farm, the only national park in Vermont. Then onto the Cabot cheese store. Where they sell a million things but also let you taste cheese which is delicious.





The rest of the day is real errands. I grab a few extra layers for the upcoming mountains. They are supposed to have particularly wicked weather. I even make a resupply box and mail it up ahead which should make the whites a little nicer. Cobbling together 5 days of food from a convenience type store is never as nice as a real grocery. We end up mailing it hanover so I get a sneak peek of my next town and I pick up my new shoes.


Then it's back to the inn. This time in the grass across the street. But they are lovely and let us hang out in the common room and use their wifi and bathrooms. We watch climbers scale the rocks above and amateur ham radio operators practice in the parking lot. All in all a very full and surreal day.

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Day 98: to the Inn

7/26: Bully - the Inn at the Long Trail
Mile: 1676.2 - 1700.8

I woke up around midnight convinced a rainy windstorm had rolled in. I leaned out of my tent to frantically fix my tent doors only to realize it was the sounds of the river. Right, half asleep I'm not the sharpest thinker. Despite that one upset I sleep great, I even sleep in a little.

The trail dips down to a road and climbs straight back up to a ridge. The highlight of my morning? When I manage to startle a porcupine. I was pretty excited about the guy and would have hovered much longer but the mosquitos were out and vicious.








The trail rolls for awhile dropping a bit but staying fairly high on the ridges before dipping down to Clarendon Gorge.









The suspension shakes and the river below is drop dead gorgeous, more good things. I decide to head 0.5 miles off trail to Qu's whistlestop diner in hopes of hot coffee, it was a good decision. That's two mornings in a row with hot coffee and blueberry pancakes. Although these are way tastier than mine were. The ladies are lovely and one even gives me a ride back to the trail.

Then surprise surprise it's time to climb. It's not a huge one but rather two shorter steep jumps. Even though I'm a little stuffed I feel really good and am really enjoying today.









It doesn't take long to hit the real climb of the day, Killington Mountain. It's a slow and steady 7 miles and a fair bit of elevation. I'm still feeling good and having a blast. There are glimpses of giant mountains through the trees and it feels chilly and perfect. Only one section is a little on the scrambly side with a ton of roots and steep rocks but it's short and fun.





I'll admit I skip the summit. It's 0.2 miles off trail and I don't feel like going, I have other plans. I pass by the shelter and start the long descent. I feel like it takes forever but I finally hit the real highway and walk 0.8 miles up to the Inn at the Long Trail. It's crowded with mostly long trail hikers but it's fun chatting and meeting new people. Plus one of them had a room with an extra bed. I had planned on tenting but now full, showered and comfy I couldn't be happier.


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Day 97: Bully Brook

7/25: VT Rt 11/30 - Bully Brook
Mile: 1650.7 - 1676.2 (25.5 miles)

No sleeping late today, our hostel host takes hikers back to the trail and I need to be ready by 7:30. That's late for me and not usually a problem but breakfast supplies are available. I haven't made pancakes in years but they were 100% worth the earlier wake up.

A few of us are headed back to the trail but we all got off at different points so I still manage to start alone. The first climb is steady and quiet and a great start to the day. Bromley Mountain has a great emergency shelter that hikers can stay in and since its part of a ski resort the trail passes a lift and fun signs before heading straight back down.








Back up this time to the more wooded summit of Styles Peak. And then you guessed it, right back down. Then it's mostly mellow elevation changes all day. The whole day turns out to be pretty rocky and root filled but overall really not bad hiking and I'm feeling good.



This was a very busy squirrel who was stuffing his mouth like a hamster.








I stop a short way off trail at a nice little shelter to grab water and it starts to rain. I wait out the rain, although rain is an overstatement it's really just drizzle. But I'm sleepy and laying down on flat wood listening to rain patter is lovely.

The rest of the afternoon stays gray with a nice cool breeze. There are small sections walking along rushing water which is always a great sound. I'm extra glad it's a Monday when I get to the Rock Lake trailhead, there's only 1 car in the parking lot which is lucky because apparently this area can be a zoo.











Large mystery rock gardens amidst the pine.


The very end of the day turns into beautiful pine forest and while not quick going with all the rocky trail it's extra beautiful. I head down to camp by a gorgeous creek and get to fall asleep to the sound of rushing water, my favorite.

Day 96: Manchester Zero

7/24
Miles: 0

My whole plan for my day off was to not leave the house. The hostel is clean and mellow. With only 7 beds and most of the hikers gone I'm beyond happy. The only other hiker staying heads into town and I have to whole house to myself for a few hours. I get to read and take care of small little housekeeping things and mostly just relax.

The house is full again within a few hours and Jeff the hostel owner has an outside building as well so it's more faces towards evening. Mostly small talk and trail gossip but it's fun. I hear about what a zoo the fire tower was during the day and am extra glad I got to experience it like I did. It's a wonderfully relaxing day and I would happily stay longer but tomorrow it's back to hiking.












Vermont is Ben and Jerry country and at the hostel a pint is included in your stay. A fun snack for sure.


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Day 95: I love Stratton

7/23: IP road - Manchester Center (VT RT 11/30)
Mile: 1634.6 - 1650.7

If I'm really going to do this I refuse to wake up ridiculously early and miss anything since dawn is at 5am I need to be on that summit by 5. The trail is not smooth, rocks and roots abound and I'm figuring it will be slow going in the dark. Needless to say my 3:10 alarm hurts. I'm bleary and mosquitos hum as I pack up.

Its quiet this early, I forgot the birds and animals aren't all up either. Although I heard plenty of rustling and my light glanced off enough eyes to remind me I'm definitely not alone. The trail isn't hard to follow, by this many miles you get a sense of what rocks you climb and when you're off course but I'm happy to see I'm on track whenever I check (the one time gps apps on the AT are useful not just fun). I make it to the summit in the gray predawn at 4:40, it's gotten colder as I climbed and the wind howls around the 55 ft tall tower. But it's beautiful and I'm so happy to be up here.

It's a fully enclosed tower and I huddle inside popping down a bit to snag photos not through glass. I can't stay out long with the howling wind but it's so fun.


























With the sun fully up I finally head down. Camping isn't allowed on the summit and there are caretakers in a small cabin near the base of the tower. I'm a little sheepish when I see one, hoping he doesn't think I camped illegally. I backtrack to say good morning and explain. We start chatting and soon enough I'm invited into the tiny cabin to meet Jeanne and Hugh the caretakers who have been seasonal up here for over 45 years. They are absolutely fabulous. They make me coffee and then a breakfast of eggs that they store in a cave nearby. I'm in love with them. Hugh was a fire spotter back when he was 27 and the tower was actually in use for fire. We talk for at least 2 hours. Work stories and people and life, pretty much anything and everything. I can't say enough lovely things about them. I looked when I got service and for a nice in depth article about them check out: http://m.sevendaysvt.com/vermont/from-4000-feet-hugh-and-jeanne-joudry-have-kept-watch-over-vermonts-stratton-mountain-for-decades/Content?oid=2266512.





I do finally leave, sleep deprived and giddy with my magical morning. I feel like I'm in a special bubble with spongy moss and springs. It's the perfect fairy tale location. But it's chilly and I'm very tired so on I stumble.





The pond is beautiful but it's much too cold of a morning for a dip.





Back into the forest, there's even some nice flat terrain before I make it to the road. I'm headed into the town of Manchester Center. My hitch takes less than 2 minutes and my driver goes out of his way to drop me off at the grocery store. After eating and resupplying I call up the hostel who picks you up in town and head out into the idyllic countryside.


The Green Mountain Hostel is lovely and quiet. There's a kitchen and wifi and soft comfy beds. Showered and resting I'm bleary eyed and excited for my planned zero. What a great spot.


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