Sunday, July 24, 2016

Day 89: Mellow days

7/17: Salisbury - Glen Brook Shelter
Miles: 1498.7 - 1512.7 (14 miles)

I am not motivated to leave this morning and don't get going until late. Maria is a lovely host and I've had a great time in Salisbury but after 2 days it's time to get going.

Sparky and I head out at the same time after Maria gives us a ride back to the trail. The trail passes by a cemetery and more of the houses of Salisbury before heading back into the trees. The first climb is around 1000 ft to Lions Head but it feels great. There's a perfect cool breeze and even though it's hot it feels wonderful without the smothering humidity.


There are some rock ledges but it's mostly nice dirt trail to start. There a bit of nice ridge walking before climbing up to Bear Mountain where I pass hordes of dayhikers. I hadn't realized it was a Sunday but the crowds make more sense once I remember.






The gentleman with the beard is Cumulous, our trail magic provider.


There's trail magic on top of the mountain, sponsored by a gentleman from a Connecticut Atheist Association. Certainly not as common as the churches but just as appreciated. It's much rockier heading down but not bad just slow.












The trail follows Sages Ravine which is beautiful, green and full of swimming holes. Eating lunch with Sparky we realize we've missed the border and have officially made it to Massachusetts. Then it's a long climb up to Mt Race along big rock ledges. It's such a treat getting all these views. The last climb is up Mt Everett which would have been horrid if wet but thankfully was just very steep and rocky.















Partway down the mountain are 2 large coolers of ice water, what a treat. We take a side trail to Guilder Pond because why not?



There are hilarious dogs and a nice place to soak my feet, not bad at all. It's a very short way to the shelters and after walking in circles for awhile we find a quieter spot. There's a teenage Jewish youth group sharing the area so quiet is a bit hard to come by. Another hiker finds us and it's a sociable dinner before I'm as usual happy to sleep.

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Day 88: Zero at Maria's

7/16
Miles: 0

I love Maria and I really am enjoying Salisbury. I do my resupply and watch the people streaming through town. It's crazy hot and humid but I'm going nowhere so it's fantastic.

Yesterday we took advantage of the vhs player and enjoyed the classic Free Willy complete with Michael Jackson music video. Today it's just wandering around town, hanging out with hikers and enjoying my zero.


Sparky takes the initiative and cooks us all dinner. It's such a great treat and delicious.








It starts pouring and we hide under the eaves enjoying being dry and eating.


The lovely Maria, she made this town such a wonderful stop.

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Day 87: Salisbury

7/15: past Rands View - Salisbury
Mile: 1495.4 - 1498.3

Before I fell asleep last night I starting looking at places to stay in Great Barrington and am shocked to find the cheapest place is about $200, ouch. I'm more then ready for laundry and a break from the humidity and spend awhile flipping pages and decide instead of just walking a little off trail to Salisbury for coffee and a snack like I planned I'll cross my fingers and find a reasonable place.

I wake up more than looking forward to laundry, everything is still damp and reeks. The forest is nice but the descent is crazy steep and I'm just ready for town.





This was labeled a view point, I think it's pretty but it's hard to tell.





Looking back at the steepness.

It's not far off trail to town and soon enough I'm drinking coffee chatting with more hikers. There are two ladies who rent rooms in town and one of the hikers warns me against one. I decide to try the other but head to the library first. It's awesome.











The librarian is incredibly nice and excited, they just rebuilt the inside and reopened 2 days ago. It's shiny and lovely and I'm loving this town with all its people watching.

I walk over to Mrs Maria MCabes house and am in love. She's 87 and 100% in love with helping people and I'm so very glad I'm here.





She drives me to the laundromat, I get to wear town clothes and enjoy Italian food and then back to the house to enjoy dinner and more hikers.

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Day 86: I think I like it here?

7/14: ridge top campsite - past Rands View
Mile: 1468 - 1495.4 (27.4 miles)

I wake up hopeful for a good day. I'll admit I'm mostly looking forward to finally being able to do laundry soon. The town of Great Barrington is only 53 miles away and as usual everything I own is damp and unpleasant. The first mile is harder than it should be and misty humidity is a punch in face and I'm pouring sweat from minute one. Making it to Choggam Brook with cold water, caffeine and another snack the morning gets better. More climbing doesn't feel as dramatic although the descent after St. John's Ledges is rocky and surprisingly slow going.













Then it's nice mellow road following a river and meadows. The trail is quiet and the river full of ducks and great blue herons. There is even a raccoon fishing that I would have happily watched longer had the mosquitos and gnats been slightly less infuriating.



He's blurry but real!





The steep climbs continue, although there's more pine and less rock which is nice. I even pass a trail crew which is fun, and then I pass a racetrack which is just odd. Unearths cars more than anything and looking down all I can see are loops of track and squealing tires.


It's hazy but there's a track down there.


The rain starts in earnest, not pouring but much more than a drizzle. I plod along pushing to I don't know where. I find myself sitting down a lot staring numbly into space, I really could use a day off.

Walking on a road the trail passes a high school that looks beyond Ivy League and fancy. It's pouring so I don't take a closer look, just continue on. I pass on a small town nearby because the only cafe is already closed. Crossing a river on a giant iron bridge and finding empty coolers of trail magic while the rain continues.


The water source I expected looks dry until I realize it's just fine farther upstream which is fantastic because I don't have it in me to walk to the next source. Even with the pouring rain things are dry.

I continue climbing, I'm feeling better and as I get higher the climb is fun. Larger spines of rock then beautiful pine forest. I spend awhile taking in sunset in the misty rain at Rands View before finding the first spot I can squeeze my tent into. Today was full of highs and lows, I'm glad it got to end on a good note because it was honestly a rough one.











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Day 85: Connecticut

7/13: forest/pastures - ridge line forest
Mile: 1446.8 - 1468 (23ish miles)

I wake up covered in sweat, the humidity is back and everything from my backpack to my clothes is damp or still soaked in sweat from my last climb yesterday evening. Dirt sticks to everything and everything I own smells beyond awful.

The first miles are through pretty foggy swamp. I pass the train station to NYC. I thought about adventuring into the city but the sensory overload ruled it out. This trip is about the trail, the city deserves its own.








There's a garden center that has a faucet and snacks but it's not open yet so I start my slog up through cow pastures. While it should be lovely it's already over 80 and humidity is 96%, ouch.





The miles are harder then they should be with the humidity. But I plod along through the forest, excited when I officially make it to Connecticut. The states are coming fast again, this one is only going to be around 52 miles.








Lots of signs, and even a river. It's pretty but I have plans. I dip my head and move on. The bugs are merciless. It isn't even the mosquitos is the never ending flies and gnats who seem determined to live in my eyes and ears. Is it safe to walk with full on earplugs in? I wish it was.


I see 2 black squirrels in the forest, I'd heard they were around but they still look strange. I was of course not quick enough for a photo but they were fun to watch scampering away.


More climbing and forest, I'm seeing more hikers so I know town is close...





I get to the road and start walking. The town of Kent CT looks mighty expensive but has a real grocery store and my brilliant plan is to walk the 0.8 miles to town, hang out until 8 and then camp at the first nice flat spot I find. So not a true day off but some time to hide from the heat.


I pass mansions heading into town, there is some serious money out here. Private schools and acres of groomed grass yards, but there are also small places full of chickens which is a great addition and makes my afternoon happier.


The outdoor store at the edge of town has wifi, is also an ice cream place and seems to sell upscale clothing rather than real outdoor gear but they're very friendly and have a bathroom. I wander through town watching the upscale antique shoppers and spend far too long in the air conditioned grocery store. The afternoon passes quickly and I walk out of town and to the top of the ridge hoping for at least a small breeze.



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