Monday, July 15, 2013

Ruby Mountains Day 1

I'm not sure how exactly I stumbled upon the Ruby Mountains, probably one cold wintery day while dreaming of summer adventures. All I know is that the more I learned about them the more I knew it would be a required trip this summer. With just small snippets floating around on the internet I saw the Ruby Mountains repeatedly compared to Yosemite, only far less traveled. Glacial lakes, towering mountains and only a few visitors, umm excuse me how I could I not just want to hop in my car right now? Then I read about the Ruby Crest National Recreation Trail and I knew that was my in, established trail in a place I wanted to visit, done. So when my July schedule finally came out and I saw that I had a nice long stretch of days off I knew my trip could definitely happen.
Logistics turned out a bit fuzzy. There isn't a whole lot of info out there on this trail, it's part of the Humboldt-Toiyabe National Forest and primarily in the Ruby Mountain Wilderness in NE Nevada. The Forest service has exactly one sentence on its website saying the trail is 33 miles long and zero other info. Okay then, Google it would have to be.
A few folks have set up trip reports/info pages on the area and that is what I used. Lots of conflicting info and a not so great forest service map (as the lovely ranger put it, "Oh yeah, you mean the map big enough to be a groundcloth?" Guys maybe consider breaking it up into smaller chunks so its a bit more readable, the hikers would love you). Either way the trail looked to be anywhere from 33-45 miles long (rather different don't you think?). Its not a loop and every single thing I read recommended a shuttle, well sorry folks I don't do shuttles when hiking alone, far to much hassle. I figured the Rubies are in NE Nevada, right outside of Elko and about 4.5-5 hours from Reno. 2 half days for driving and 60-90 miles of hiking if I made the trip an out and back. Most folks seem to take 3-4 days to go one direction, I decided to roughly plan for 6 days of hiking starting in the North at Lamoille Canyon, and I would figure out the details of each day as I went along.

I somehow magically got the night off work so instead of sleep deprived me it was a much more perky and over excited me that hit highway 80 by 10 am Thursday morning. I had wanted to leave super early but hey, who are we kidding I hadn't even finished grocery shopping by Wednesday night. It was nice to finally put some actual images with all those place names I have been hearing since I moved to Reno as I sped through 300 plus miles of Northern Nevada.


Gas and bathroom breaks aside it was a super straightforward drive to Elko. A quick stop at the forest service office where I asked about a more detailed map (rumors on the internet spoke of a smaller wilderness only map). The ranger very nicely smiled and said nope but Backpacker magazine just did a feature on the trail so why didn't I try that. Oh well and no thanks, towards the park I went. Meanwhile the clouds had settled in and I felt like I was entering the foggy lands of the Pacific Northwest. I was so close to my start, the north end of the trail at the Roads End parking lot (the terminus of the Lamoille Canyon Scenic Byway). Drop dead  gorgeous by the way. 



3 pm had me eyeing the mostly empty parking lot (8 whole cars) and debating rain gear. I felt like I was in a cloud and at the last minute threw my rain jacket in my bag and after fussing with the dogs backpack and stalling for a few more minutes I finally locked the car and hit the trail.

No official mention of the Ruby Crest but those lakes were on my trail map so I figured I was on the right track. 

Harrison pass is 43 miles away? Forest service you said the trail was 33 miles. Ah the conflicting info, good thing I don't rely on your day estimates.
Started off climbing (maybe a 1000 ft) up the canyon I went. Turning around about every 5 seconds to gape at the view and take photos. Enjoying the mist and solitude. I saw 2 whole hikers that first section.


Getting closer to the pass and looking down at Lamoille Lake
.
Looking back at the canyon 


heading down liberty pass and looking at Liberty Lake.

Continuing down towards Favre Lake


Heading back up, more pretty meadows

I got to N.Furlong creek and knew that there was a 10-11 mile stretch after this with no water. There was a nice campsite but I still had a few hours of daylight and I had read that there were some possible campsites on the ridge near Wines peak. Which was only one climb and a mile or so away. I was loving the hike and just wanted to keep going, so I filled up on water to dry camp and headed up.

up a deceptively flat meadow, with no clue what views were in store

and that's what was on the other side

looking back down at the meadow 


We made it to the top, looking out over a new stretch of mountains and more clouds. The sun was setting and with the clouds in mind I was searching for a spot to pitch my tent, not much luck yet so onwards it was

obligatory photo of a far to excited me




We made it down to the saddle below the peak and I decided slanted and rocky be darned I would make it work. Sitka posted watch while I scrambled to beat the dark.



Have I mentioned recently how much I love this place? If you can't tell from my snap happy self its pretty great. I think my first day came in at around 8-9 miles. 9 or so left until the next water and Overland lake. No real plans except to see how I feel in the morning...


Saturday, July 6, 2013

Nights

I grew up night hiking. Big groups of kids screaming at every little sound and walking into trees were a regular occurrence. We were not graceful, but man did we have fun (in between all the whining and screaming). If you've ever hiked with a bunch of ten year olds then you know exactly what I'm talking about. When I started to lead more trips I was suddenly in charge of the unruly masses which was just as hilarious. There's nothing like convincing 30 kids that walking down what is most probably a cliff into a 5 ft tall culvert to keep you laughing and help you work on your persuasion skills.
These nighttime adventures just got more ridiculous as I got older. All night treks through redwoods, scrambling up sandy mountains, beating the heat on the PCT and always feeling like you are in a whole different world. I'll never forget these adventures, Joshua trees at night sure do look amazing silhouetted against a full moon.
So I guess it should come as no surprise that as I have settled into working 12 hour night shifts I found myself wide awake at the most inopportune hiking hours. So I've started to take advantage of the cool evening hours and hit the hills in the dark. Not always advisable but such a satisfying time. I stick to the trails I know like the back of my hand, enjoy sunset and the quiet of a popular place in the off hours. New sounds, or at least different ones make what can be a mundane hike into something entirely different, never discount the creepy nighttime forest factor. Earlier this week I just had to pause and smile, thunder rumbling as a lightning storm lit up the sky, a fire burning across the canyon takes on a whole new life and ultimately I just love that I get to be a part of it.
My old hikes all had one hard and fast rule, no lights. I am still somewhat surprised when I'm with a bunch of adults and the minute it gets dark lights get busted out in every direction. As long as I'm not completely in forest canopy I really just prefer the lack of light. But in deference to safety and no broken bones (yes mom this is really all just for you) I often have a headlamp with me as I head into the dark, laughing as the light hits the eyes of small creatures and my dog disappears into nothingness. How can you not love night hiking?

Tuesday, July 2, 2013

Magic

So it has come to my attention that not everyone automatically knows what trail magic is. Sometimes I forget how small the world of thruhikers is and that we have our own lingo. I'm always reminded of this when I mention something and am met by puzzled stares or totally blank looks. So here's a quick primer on trail magic.
Trail magic is a tradition of charity along the trail. Its often unexpected and can be anything from a cooler full of snacks to people who provide rides or take you into their homes. The folks providing this are usually called trail angels and I can say that they are truly part of what makes the trail amazing. I still remember all the rides I got, the lovely people who let me stay in their homes and the amazing cold sodas and snacks I occasionally stumbled on. So when I heard that some other PCT hikers from 2012 were thinking about doing some trail magic at Sonora Pass I got pretty excited.
I'll admit I wasn't so sure at first. I actually didn't know the hikers who were organizing at all, they were behind me on the trail last year and I had never met them. But I only live about 2 hours from the pass and I still remember Sonora Pass as some of my very favorite scenery on the trail, so after one vague text message I found myself planing for a weekend at the pass.
As usual I was running late on Friday but as I finally headed out I couldn't help but be excited. Afternoon thunderstorms rolled over me and green valleys spread out around me as I headed down 395.



That sure is one beautiful drive, when I finally turned onto 108 and started to climb to the pass I was stunned. Even prettier than I remembered, and so much more of the mountains than I had been able to see when I was hiking on the PCT.
There was quite the crowd when I got there, already over 50 hikers had been there that day. Bounce Box, Major Upchuck, Cherry Bomb and Huff-n-Puff were the key trail angels and after introducing myself I was quickly drawn into the chaos. Plenty of food was cooked, trail talk was overwhelming and overall everyone was just ridiculously happy and thankful. A great first night.
I stumbled off into the trees and rolled out my sleeping bag, so content to stare at the stars and enjoy the mountains. My night shift brain had some trouble with sleeping so I even got the chance to enjoy some reading, I love reading but 2 am fiction time is a bit silly in the woods. Although I did scramble up a nearby peak to enjoy the sunrise.



Huff-n-Puff was up early making pancakes and the day just went on from there. So many people and so much food, a drive into Bridgeport to help out an injured hiker and restock and then back to the trail head. Another great day.










Dr. Tom was a lovely surprise. He showed up at the trail head with no knowledge of our presence to provide some trail magic of his own. So the hikers ended up with even more food. He's never hiked the PCT but had heard of thruhikers and has spent plenty of time in the woods (only he seems to prefer llamas for extended adventures). Great stories there I assure you. Plus he managed to wrangle Kaiser into providing some goods, not too shabby.

Bear Cans are required for this section of the trail but not after Sonora Pass, most hikers hold onto them another 80ish miles until they hit Echo Lake and a post office that's actually on trail. Bounce Box and Major Upchuck had the genius idea of offering the hikers the chance to leave their bear cans with us and we would mail them wherever they needed to go, saving the hikers those bulky 2.5 pounds a little earlier than expected. They take up a ton of room and I ended up with 15 of the suckers in my little car. The postmistress smiled with the first one, not so much when she saw the rest...

The weekend was amazing, some of the angels had shown up as early as Wednesday, I was there just for the weekend and saw over a 100 hikers. The long distance trail family is truly spectacular and seems to welcome everyone with open arms. Such a great time, although it made me miss the trail and thruhiking even more. And I assure you spending an hour talking to a former CDT hiker sure had my brain whirring. I still don't know about this work life balance thing but thruhiking is where I feel most at home and I love that I know that.  


One last look at the beautiful mountains. I loved this section of the PCT and am so glad I got to see a bit more of it, definitely worth visiting if you ever have the chance.
Oh and if you are ever near the trail and see a rather scruffy looking individual maybe consider a piece of fruit or a ride, I assure you it will be greatly appreciated.

Wednesday, June 26, 2013

Oh hey there June 25th

I'll admit it, yesterday didn't start out too hot. Nothing like a good old shot to your self esteem to bring on the self doubt and pity. See I had pretty high hopes for my day, last year on June 25th I was in Sierra City having a blast.
Now why would I remember something like that? Just another small town near the PCT, an okay grocery store and the Red Moose Inn. But see last year I was hiking on the PCT and Sierra City happened to be where I spent my birthday. That was one fantastic birthday, and this year instead of being out hiking I was woken up with negative phone call and an unhappy start to my day.
So after letting my thoughts spin more and more into the land of self pity and frustration I gave up on sleeping and did the only thing I could think of to cheer me up. Ran to the mountains. And it was perfect, a strangely blustery day complete with light showers and lots of clouds. So while my night at work was much more sleep deprived than usual the peace of mind I bought myself for those few hours seemed pretty worth it. Thank the trail for what little sanity and humor I had last evening, it sure was a close call.










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Friday, June 21, 2013

Bolinas Ridge

Okay lets face it, Reno isn't a particularly green place. I'm not talking recycling and save the earth green, I'm talking rolling green hills and canyons full of ferns kind of green. And yes there is some kind of green sagebrush and lots of trees in the foothills but I live in the desert now and most of the green here is pretty darn fake (lawns are not natural folks). So I was pretty excited when I decided to head down to the bay area for a few days. Visiting family and hiking where moisture is a regular occurrence was hard not to look forward to. Between the family visiting and work schedule I ended up with one day by myself to hit the hills of Marin.
I chose the Bolinas Ridge Trail, a great hike I've done a few times in the past that I always really enjoy. I ended up with about a 16 mile loop. Starting in forest canyons, climbing up to the Bolinas ridge line full of sweeping vistas and an occasional cow and then back to the forested creek walk that is the Cross Marin Trail. Whats not to enjoy?
This trail has the added bonus of being accessible by a short road walk, I love not having to drive to trail heads.

 Everything is in bloom and the berries are so close to being ripe!

 Then it was into the trees, I've missed redwoods.

 The turn of to the actual hike was about 2 miles into my walk.

 Forest and creek along an old fire road.

 Then it was climbing, its actually a pretty steep trip but with the shade its hard to really notice.


 The top is wide open and great. I got distracted for a good half hour by some early blackberries. So very delicious.







The grass is beautiful but I forgot how quickly the hills turn brown. For a few months in spring it is all bright green and amazing, although a bit of a mud pit.

After cutting down from the ridge its  another few miles on the cross Marin trail, the only really crowded section of the trail as it heads past all the car camping that is Samuel P Taylor Park. Then on to finish the loop. What an enjoyable way to spend and afternoon.
If you ever end of in Marin I highly recommend it, the best link for actual trail info I've found is this:
http://www.redwoodhikes.com/Taylor/Bolinas.html

Now I'm back in the desert, enjoying the aspen and slightly cooler temps we've been enjoying. I've got some pretty high hopes for the next few months so cross your fingers on me not procrastinating myself out of any of my plans.