Day 134, The last full day

8/30
Daily mileage: 31
Mile 2605-2636

This is it, my last real day on the PCT. Tomorrow I'll be at the border and officially finished with this trip. It all just seems so unreal.
Well it's chilly out this morning but no where near as cold as last night. Up walking with the sun and the mountains today. Contoured my way down and around to granite pass and then a slow climb to Methow Pass. In the shadows with everything covered in frost, it's definitely getting more like fall out here. I was lazy last night about water and have none this morning. There's nothing like passing a ton of small trickles to feel like the trail is taunting you just a bit. No worries though, I knew a real creek was 4 miles from where I camped, not far in the cold morning air. Although that icy cold water did taste good when I got there. You'd think i would have all this stuff dialed in by now. I'm going to miss drinking from streams like this, although that whole running water whenever I would like it will be pretty thrilling.








And then it was time to descend, 7 miles watching mountains and sitting in the forest. I keep catching myself just grinning at nothing. Someone told me that once you hit that Washington border you fly and this last stretch has been pretty euphoric. It doesn't hurt that it's beyond gorgeous.


Then it was back to climbing, 6 miles and 3000 ft. It was pretty exposed and about halfway up I had to stop and take a breather. My foot started bothering me pretty badly yesterday and I have no clue why. Feels a bit line a deep bruise but it's making walking a bit trickier than usual. As I'm sitting there feeling sorry for myself who should pop up but Wrong Way and Caveman. I knew they couldn't be far behind me. As usual they cheered me up and I was able to fly up the last 3 miles. Look at those views.





The flats and the downs seem to bug my foot more so after the climb I slowed a bit but it was really just a lot of contouring. Not to hard, but surprisingly crowded. Always funny how you can tell you are near a trail head.











Found the guys taking a lunch break and stopped to sit for a bit. Longest break I've taken in awhile, dried gear and just hung out. What a mellow and enjoyable afternoon.








Back to hiking, only 4 miles left until Harts Pass. That's the last official road crossing on the PCT and I'll admit I was hoping for some trail magic. Alas it was not to be. Some contouring through a burn and then a small dirt parking lot, hmm okay then. Kept going and after a bit of climbing it was back to gorgeous contouring.


I wasn't sure how far I really wanted to go but at 7 something I ran into Caveman and Wrong Way who had decided to stop early. I figured an early night would be a treat and so here I am camped 24 miles from the border and the end of this insane journey. Well okay, an end to this part of the journey.

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Day 133, Goodbye Stehekin, Hello Mountains

8/29
Daily mileage: 25 (plus 2 much needed bakery miles)
Mile 2580-2605

I couldn't very well leave Stehekin without one more stop at the bakery so Caveman and I walked over when they opened at 7 am. That way I had an hour to drink some coffee, eat too much, and enjoy the atmosphere before hopping on the morning shuttle and heading out. What a great start to the morning.
Waved goodbye to Caveman and Wrong Way and off I went. I chatted with folks on the shuttle and by the time I actually started hiking around 9:30 I found I had picked up a section hiker named Dan. That's okay, company isn't always a terrible thing.
So away we went, towards the old washed out road (okay okay it's not the official PCT route but it mirrors the trail, just next to the river and I wanted to see it). First bit was beautiful and easy, then we hit the unmaintained bit, some interesting rock scrambling and climbing but I stayed dry.


The rock climbing and overgrown trail started to get old so about 4 miles in we found a side trail that took us back to the PCT. At which point I lost Dan because I decided as nice as company is I really prefer mostly hiking alone, particularly this section. Not that I think I will come to any mind blowing epiphanies hiking alone, I just wanted the time to think, reflect, and just zone out without feeling the need to entertain anyone with small talk.


Then it was 12 or so miles of a rolling climb, following rivers up valleys and staring at clouds. Pretty sweet.





First cache I've seen in ages right before Rainy Pass. Regardless of what's in them you gotta love a trail cache, they always make me smile.


Crossed the highway at the pass and then it was time for one more 2000 ft climb up towards Cutthroat Pass. Man this has been a crowded section, but it's fun talking gear and trail, especially with people who are so excited about it.
This area is so beautiful, mountains and clouds are hard to beat as far as I'm concerned, throw in a sunset and you're golden.


























Up and over cutthroat pass, the wind was whipping and the scenery was outstanding.





I could have kept going but it gets dark so early lately and it was such a great view I figured why not. Plus it was so cold. 42 degrees with wind when I started setting up the tent and 39 by the time I was done. Maybe those extra 1 or 2 miles would have been nice but right now snug in my sleeping bag warming my numb fingers I don't mind that it's still light out and only 8. Now to make dinner and not freeze my fingers off in the process.

55 miles to the border...

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Day 132, Hanging out in Stehekin

8/28
Daily mileage: 0

Around 4 am I opened my eyes to find that the clear skies had disappeared and I was being rained on. Hmm, that's not good. Threw my Tyvek over my sleeping bag and tried to fall back asleep. Turns out, if you use your ground cloth every night for 4 months it's not so water proof anymore. Around 5 am with a very damp sleeping bag I convinced Caveman to get up and do what every good thruhiker should do. Nope not set up my tent, we went and hid from the rain in the public laundry room. It was pretty hilarious especially because it wasn't even that rainy anymore. It didn't matter as long as our gear could dry. Besides we had plans that morning. Sleeping in just wasn't meant to be. The bakery puts out day olds when they open and that's at 7:30 and an hour before the first shuttle. So we knew we were walking to that bakery, priorities are important in thruhiking and baked goods are pretty high up there. Caveman, Toast and I headed out enjoying the views happy as can be.


Eric and Big Slice were already there and planning to hit the trail that morning. I still wasn't sure and with the chilly clouds and wet gear I was in no rush. The vague plan is for everyone to hit the border monument on the 31st and the morning of the 1st so we can have a big collection of folks which sounded fun. So mileage is all based on that and how fast individuals feel like hiking. Either way only 80 miles to the border. It's a drop in the bucket at this point.
Hanging out in the bakery on a cold morning was pretty fantastic. It's a great atmosphere and they are super friendly. We spent hours there, playing cards and just enjoying ourselves (oh and of course eating far to much).


Everyone but Caveman, Wrong Way and I decided to take off today. I decided that as long as I do 20 plus tomorrow I would rather have a real zero (my last zero!) than do lower miles. The other two are so fast they don't have to worry but I'll be on that first shuttle tomorrow which should put me on the trail a bit before ten. 3 hiking days to the border! Until then, just enjoy my zero day.


Watching the clouds roll in and the wind whip through the trees. Almost looks like there might be some real weather. Hung out all afternoon. Turns out there is a rec room with an amazingly comfy couch where I managed to read a whole book. Wow do I miss reading books. Took care of the rest of my chores and made dinner. Hotel room tonight, but we still used my little alcohol stove to eat out if the hiker box... It was actually delicious, adding farm produce sure does enhance the tastiness of hiker food.


Nothing else too thrilling, just enjoyed the day off. Tomorrow back to my very last stretch. Exciting and terrifying all rolled into one.

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Day 131, Stehekin

8/27
Daily mileage: 13
Mile 2567-2680

13 miles to the bus stop that will take us to Stehekin and it's infamous bakery as well as my last town stop on the trail. The bus comes 4 times a day, and we could wake up early and haul butt to the 9:15 bus or sleep in and make the 12:15. No contest, slept in and didn't hit the trail until 6:30. Then it was a leisurely trip down the canyon. Crossing bridges and listening to the river the whole way down.
Less than half a mile to the shuttle stop you cross Agnes Creek and officially enter the North Cascades. Everything seems like a milestone now, excitement is at a ridiculous level.





I had the biggest grin on my face over those 13 miles. Hiked most of them with Matt as the trail rolled on by. Even with our late start we were sitting back cooling our heels at the shuttle stop a few minutes after 10. Which was fine because we got to sit and relax and chat with a bunch of section hikers and other folks waiting for the bus until 12:15. Plus by the time the shuttle had come all of our various group members had caught up. The shuttle stops at the bakery on the way to Stehekin and it was chaos. We had only 10 minutes and after a few gave up and decided to just walk the last 2 miles to the town. The whole shuttle ride is 11 miles which is why we took it in the first place, 11 extra miles nope but 2 is fine. Oh the bakery is amazing, so many delicious baked goods, and such tasty pizza!





So glad we skipped the rest of the shuttle. A quarter mile down the road is a local farm that sells delicious produce. Beautiful flowers, amazing peaches and nectarines. Even fresh goat cheese. Life is so good, although man some of the worst mosquitoes in awhile at that farm.


Then we were at Lake Chelan and the town of Stehekin. 3rd deepest lake in the country and the largest in Washington state. A very small community that's really only accessible by ferry or plane. Very cool spot.








Hung around for hours with a ton of hikers, there were at least ten section hikers and other people popping out of the woodwork. Some folks who we saw months ago who have skipped sections and are now up here. I'm pretty sure the restaurant had no clue how to deal with 12 thruhikers. Our meal took forever but it was hilarious sitting with everyone. People are so giddy right now that it's just a fantastic atmosphere.


We were all camped on the lawn because both the regular campground and the overflow campground were full. Just a bunch of thruhikers on the shore of an amazing lake, how fantastic is that?


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Day 130, Wait how many miles left?

8/26
Mile 2530-2567

Oh my gosh, I can't believe how close we are. One last town, one last resupply and less than 100 miles (93 to be exact). Craziness.


I woke up to stunning views. I walked over the last rise only to find the whole giant group of folks I've been hiking on and off with, guess I camped 5 minutes too soon. Hawkeye, Kombucha, Wrong Way, Caveman, Matt, Big Slice and Eric were all just getting ready to go. Watched the sun rise as we prepared to head all the way down to Milk Creek. Who doesn't like a nice steep 3000 ft descent first thing in the morning? We went a little slower than usual and stopped to check in on a section hiking couple because one of them had taken a nasty fall crossing the snow the evening before. Everything seemed okay so off we went. Definitely different heading down in a giant group.


Walking past Mica Lake, apparently it's not usually frozen during thruhiker season, pretty cool sight though.








Down we went, the old Milk Creek bridge washed out and the PCT is now 2 miles longer to get to the new bridge. Finally hit the bottom and back up 3000 ft I climbed. Toast caught up and when we reached the top you just had to stop and gawk. Wish I'd taken more pictures, didn't realize the view would disappear so quickly.





A little more contouring and even some flat before heading down 4000 ft yet again.














That was one long descent. I was feeling kind of flat and was pretty surprised to hear voices as I neared a turn in the trail. Everyone was waiting at an intersection with the old PCT. What a fun surprise. Some years ago the bridge over the Suiattle River washed out and since then people have been using a giant log. But in 2011 a new bridge was officially finished and the trail now has a nice long extra section adding 5 or so miles but using an actual bridge to cross the river. Only some folks still use the old route even though it's not maintained. The big group had stopped to wait so we could all adventure the old way together. It sounded fun so after waiting a bit longer for the cousins we were off. First we crossed a different glacier fed creek, always good to start an adventure with wet feet.


The trail wasn't too bad but there was some bush whacking and yelling through the trees. Plus we had to search for the log once we got to the river bed.


Tree found, river crossed successfully. Pretty big river but not bad at all when the log is dry. Glad it's not rainy today.


After that we just had to find the trail again and then it was back to climbing another 3500 ft. The group spread out and by early evening I got to the top for a quick dinner with Hawkeye, Kombucha and Matt. Wrong Way and Caveman had decided to basically run 12 miles farther to get closer to the shuttle stop. We decided to stick to only 8 miles farther and even that was cutting it close with how early it's been getting dark.
We were booking it down the mountain and ignored a posted detour about a bridge. Figuring if stock are still allowed to use the real trail it can't be too bad.
All of our conversations keep coming back to how close we are and tonight was no exception. It was all chatter about the trail and talk about Stehekins' infamous bakery. It would be an understatement to say we are excited about it. Just as a side note, it was crazy beautiful our way but if you do take the detour it cuts off a mile or two and avoids a pretty big climb. We were pretty much jogging as the light disappeared from the valley and after hopping over yet another downed log and tripping on some bark I slowed down and grabbed an actual light. Continued on until I caught up with the others. We stopped at the creek with the downed bridge, no desire to cross that in the dark. Only 13 miles to Stehekin, our last stop before Canada!

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